L’evo
Deep in the remote mountains of Toga Village, Toyama lies a truly divine dining experience, L’evo (Michelin two-Star). Following in the footsteps of acclaimed chefs like Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume and Magnus Nilsson’s Fäviken (sadly now closed), Eiji Taniguchi has created his own dining auberge upon a settlement once inhabited by hunters and foresters. For anyone who enjoys the journey to a destination, the breath-taking scenery on your nearly 2-hour drive (from Toyama City/Kanazawa City) or ~1hr drive from Bed & Craft in Inami, Nanto will entrance you.
Your journey will take you through and up winding mountain roads, past lakes and forests shrouded in low lying mist, creating a mystical, otherworldly atmosphere until you reach the craggy outcropping on which L’evo is perched, deep in the Hida mountains with the rushing waters of the Toga river below.
Originally from Osaka, from a family of chefs; Eiji fell in love with Toyama Prefecture and its bounty of fresh produce; Toyama Bay is one of Japan’s most fertile fishing grounds. The bay itself provides a conducive, beneficial environment for a diverse variety of marine species to thrive and flourish for the bay’s deepest part is over 1000m below sea level. Additionally the melted snow from Japan’s northern alps flows into the sea, where the warm Tsushima current merges with the cold deep-sea current resulting in an abundance of plankton (the major food source for most fish).
The Sea of Japan is home to 800 species of fish and shellfish, 500 of which live in Toyama Bay with 200 of them being allowed to be caught for food. It’s no wonder Toyama Bay is often referred to as “nature’s fish tank" by the locals. Toyama is also known for its clean and delicious tap water, in which the water quality is so high, that Japan’s Ministry of the Environment has selected some of Toyama’s water resources as one of the “100 Exquisite & Well Conserved Waters.”
Inspired by the natural elements surrounding him of star, sky, snow, mountains, water and soil, Eiji has created a modernist cuisine which celebrates Toyama’s delicious seasonal produce innovatively and showcases his years of training not only in Japan but in France.
Taniguchi regularly forages for L’evo’s seasonal ingredients in the restaurant’s surrounding forests, such as the edible wild mountain vegetables: sansai, and what he cannot forage for himself, is supplied by a collaborative network of local farmers, fishmongers, butchers and vineyards. He has also set up "L’evo Farm”, 12 acres of farming land located next to the restaurant, which was once overrun, abandoned and overgrown; that will be utilised to grow even more produce to use in the restaurant.
The restaurant also champions local artisans and craftsmen by showcasing their beautiful wares to serve the dishes on and enhance the ambiance. Signature dishes are their hotaru no ika (firefly squid), tsukinowaguma (asian black bear), ōkado sōmen (fresh wheat noodles) and their impressive L’evo chicken.
You can find a list of collaborators here
A DIVINE TASTING FEAST
The above photo showcases the famed L’evo chicken, made with chicken thighs & chicken breast exclusively grown for Taniguchi & the same sake rice used to brew the local Japanese sake “Masuizumi”, all wrapped in a delightful crispy chicken skin. The amount of umami that’s released with each bite is truly sublmine.
Whilst to the right, is a snapshot of just one of the many entrees to begin the night
SUBLIME PRESENTATION
Each dish is an artwork in itself, from the entrees to the mains; not only with the presentation of the food, but the conscious choice of artistic dish, whether it be earthen ware, exquisitely blown glassworks, wooden craftworks - each accompanying dish is truly a journey & story onto itself.
And if you wish to pair it with local sakes & wines, each can be individually recommended to what will accentuate the taste even more.
THE SEA TO THE WILD LANDS
This nearly 2 hours (don’t be surprised if it goes over 2 hours) dining experience will take you through the freshness of seafood in Toyama Bay, with seasonal specialties of the Hotaru-no-ika aka firefly squid (and as someone who doesn’t really like squid, this is one dish that could convert me) to local wild game meat hunted by local hunters of shika (deer), enoshishi (wild boar), kuma (bear) and kiji (pheasant). Meticulously smoked, dried, crafted, cooked that the flavours will astound your senses and tastebuds.
THE FINALE
And when you think that your stomach is stuffed to the brim, not only will there be a delicious dessert, light, fragrant, refreshing (the strawberry dish above) but your finishing tea/coffee & petit fours is a literally sweet box with four ACTUAL different types of petit fours of rather decent size!
PS. If you do not wish to drive back straight after dinner on your full bellies (understandable considering how much you will eat and potentially drink), L’evo also offers accommodation on the premises, three cottages of varying size.
Thoughtfully modern with a mix of Japanese & almost Scandanavian design with wide windows opening to the picturesque natural scenery of the forests. However be aware that with only 3 cottages available, just like the restaurant, book as soon as that booking window opens! If you book a night’s accommodation, L’evo offers a shuttle service for overnight guests to and from Etchu-Yatsuo Station on the JR line.
WEB: L’EVO INSTAGRAM: @LEVO.TOYAMA
