Hirosaki City
A Winter in Charming Hirosaki City
A short train ride from Aomori City, is Hirosaki, famed for its castle and the numerous cherry blossom trees that surround it. Even though I was there in winter, I was blown away by how many sakura trees there were and can only imagine the beauty of it in the Spring (seriously google “hirosaki cherry blossoms” - it looks pretty amazing!).
Hirosaki is also Japan’s largest producer of apples, so make sure to try some apple pies and tarts when you’re there. The city even has a pamphlet map showcasing the various bakeries and cafes which make apple pies & tarts and the varying sweetness, tartness and if they include cinnamon! All to help you make the best decision you can.
I decided to have us do a stopover for a couple nights at Hirosaki on our way to Aoni Onsen in Kuroishi to break up our journey and have more flexibility with connection times. It’s a small city so you can easily see the sights (ie. the castle) in a day’s trip but I recommend at least a 1 night stay if you’re coming from Tokyo just so you’re not feeling so rushed. Having 2 nights was perfect for us, as we arrived quite late on the first day, so it was already dark and really all we did was have dinner then relax in our hotel. I chose SUPER HOTEL HIROSAKI - perfect midway between Hirosaki Station and Hirosaki Castle. It’s a typical modern Japanese business hotel, small rooms but clean, simple & with free breakfast.
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Winter at Hirosaki Castle
After a good sleep, leisurely wake up - we spent our full day walking down to Hirosaki Castle which has turned into a ethereal, winter wonderland with it’s sakura trees lining the moat, the entrance, the bridges, everywhere! in their frosty white regal-ness. The trees line the banks and pretty much fill the grounds of Hirosaki Castle area, I can only imagine the beauty of it in Spring (I’m very tempted to head back to Hirosaki next Spring). Hirosaki City is relatively walkable, from Super Hirosaki Hotel it takes about a 20min walk.
Wandering the Castle & Park Grounds
So we didn’t do too much research on the actual Hirosaki Castle itself (how big it is, history etc), we just knew it from photos, sitting on the edge of the castle walls. The first building we saw was this gorgeous architecture in the grounds… then poor hubby and I became so confused as we walked about the grounds trying to find the castle on the wall! hahaha it was only until we googled it, that we realised the first building we saw was the infamous remains of Hirosaki Castle. It has been moved 70m away from its original location as the original fortifications need strengthening! hahaha and will hopefully be returned to it’s rightful place in a few years time.
The castle in its current location, it’s actually one of the corner turrets remaining and there’s one for each compass point (one of them below). However it’s not a full castle like those found in Matsumoto, Imabari etc.
TIP: in winter time from October - end March there is no fee to enter the castle grounds. April onwards they charge (obviously due to the sakura viewing)
Where to Eat in Hirosaki
Creative Local Cuisine Kikufuji was a short walk from our hotel and was a perfect feast to warm up our bellies and bodies in the snowy winter cold. Bar, the rather literal long name of the establishment, the food there specializes in regional Tsugaru cuisine like the Igamenchi and Kaiyaki Miso and is hearty and delicious.
We both ordered the vegetable nabe set, because vegetables are always welcome, the more the merrier especially in a yummy hot soup concoction. However what they’re most famous for are two of their little side dishes (below) which of course we tried.
KIKUFUJI’S いがめんち揚 - Their most popular dish, pretty much fried squid “balls” - yummy and oh so tasty
HOTATE & APPLE FRY - We weren’t sure if the combination of hotate and hirosaki apples would work, but surprisingly delicious & refreshing even being deep fried. The juice/sweetness of the apple cuts through the oil used.
KAIYAKI MISO - below, bottom right is their famed version of miso
Lunch at Pepe’s Kitchen
After a morning, walking in the snow - a perfect lunch spot is this delicious burger joint. Hubby really wanted to try their milkshakes as he’s a big milkshake lover but unfortunately they only do them at dinnertime
Dinner at Pizzeria Mia
Stumbled upon this delightful pizzeria around the corner from us for dinner, and was absolutely delighted to discover the chef trained in Italy & France and is formerly from the michelin -star Quintessence in Tokyo.
We love Italian food and generally try and visit Italy yearly, so I can tell you this little restaurant did not disappoint. In fact it may be some of the best Italian we’ve had in Japan. Pizzeria Mia makes their own buffalo mozzarella from local cows as well (just wish we had a bigger serving!).
Their take on a bolognese was soooo good, hubby and I ordered one each so we didn’t have to share… but then liked it so much we ordered a 3rd to share between us (the staff were a tad shocked! hahaha).
The pizza was delightful, the crust light, but crispy and you could instantly tell the freshness of the produce.
NOTE: I believe they do good coffee (gathering from reviews) so if you need coffee to start the day, or a coffee soft cream for a treat this could be the place. Sorry I don’t drink or eat anything coffee flavored, hubby had the soft cream for dessert and enjoyed it (he doesn’t drink coffee either). We actually returned here a few years later in another winter trip and it was still just as good!.
The Apple Pies of Hirosaki City
As mentioned earlier, Hirosaki (as well as all of Aomori) is famed for their apples, and when a city devotes an entire map, showcasing all the places selling apple pies & tarts you know it’s some serious good stuff. There are many choices, but we became short on time and had walked past this sweet bakery numerous times, had popped our heads in and knew there were good things awaiting us. Patisserie le Bourgeon is featured on the apple pie pamphlet so we were quite happy to try and apple pie from them.
Our Favourite Apple Pie Bakery
Their famed apple pie is top left, however I actually preferred their apple tart (bottom left). The stand out gem was actually the dark orange choclate ganache tart - DIVINE!
I could have had 10 more of them!
(obviously hubby and I were going to try more than the apple options!)
Craft Beer at Be Easy Brewing
So if you are a craft beer lover (I’m not, hubby is) you will want to check out Be Easy Brewing.
We wanted to have a meal there but unfortunately we went on the wrong day & the taproom was closed. However you can buy beer takeaway (which hubby did) and apparently they are available in 45 prefectures.
Operating Hours
Beer to go - Everyday 09:00 - 18:00
Eat in - Wednesday to Saturday 17:00 - 22:00
OTHER PLACES TO STAY / THINGS TO DO
Aomori City - explore this metropolitan city at the top of Japan’s main island and it delicious regional flavours
Hakkoda Mountains - hike this picturesque mountain with winding duckboard paths and stunning views
Oirase Gorge & Lake Towada- immerse yourself in nature through this lush gorge & wide lake.
Sukayu Onsen - soak in this historic onsen, beloved for its senninburo (1000 people onsen bath)
Aoni Onsen - travel off the grid into a deep mountain valley to bathe in some restorative onsen waters
Nonahana Yakeyamaso - rest a night in this charming family onsen ryokan near Oirase Gorge with traditional tatami rooms & delicious regional kaiseki
TRAVEL FURTHER
Akita Prefecture - love beautiful rotenburo onsen in nature, make time to visit Akita
Iwate Prefecture - known as the last frontier of a wild Japan
Fukushima Prefecture - the 3rd largest prefecture in Japan has many onsen to enjoy
Yamagata Prefecture- spend a couple nights exploring the beloved Ginzan Onsen
