Nagano City
Escape into Nature to the Japanese Alps and Beyond
Always a popular side trip from Tokyo, Nagano is renowned as a spot for powdery soft snow for locals, foreigners and tourists to have a quick weekend gliding down the slopes as soon as snowfall begins, especially with it’s many onsen towns in easy reach to enjoy a relaxing soak after a day on the mountains.
For those with a love of hiking stunning mountain ranges, the area is also one of the gateways to Kamikochi which lies at the foot of the Japanese Alps, including most of the Hida Mountains (Northern Alps), Kiso Mountains (Central Alps) and Akaishi Mountains (Southern Alps)
Please Note: This article contains some affiliate links. If you make a reservation through one of these links,
I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Every property and destination featured on this website has been personally experienced by the writer, and are their personal thoughts and opinions.
Find Something to Do Every Season!
Nagano has so much more to offer in all four seasons, so if you have the chance take an extra day or two off and go explore more of what this prefecture has to offer. Formerly known as Shinshu (or Shinano), Nagano belongs to the the Chubu region of Honshu and borders Niigata, Gunma, Saitama, Yamanashi, Shizuoka, Aichi, Gifu and Toyama prefectures.
Spend a Couple Nights in Matsumoto & Neighbouring Asama Onsen Town
Make sure to take some time to discover the city of Matsumoto, renowned for Matsumoto Castle and the hometown of acclaimed artist Yayoi Kusama, where a short 30mins drive away you can relax in your own private onsen bath in Asama Onsen Town (Kai Matsumoto or Matsumoto Honbako), or stay at a former feudal lord’s (Japanese daimyo) home beautiful restored and renovated.
Wander Magical Togakushi Shrine
The prefecture also is home to one of the most picturesque Shinto shrine pilgrimmages in Japan (especially stunning in winter) on Mt Togakushi where one can learn all about the legend associated with it, have the opportunity to stay in a traditional shukubo (temple stay) and eat Togakushi Soba (one of the “Three Great Soba of Japan”). There is also an opportunity to learn how to make one’s own Togakushi Soba from a local soba master.
Make a Mini Pilgrimage to Zenko-ji
However, if you lack the time, make sure you at least give yourself a night in Nagano City before you head back to Tokyo, where you can taste delicious local sake and visit one of Japan’s most important and popular temple, Zenko-ji. Nagano is known as a temple town (a lot of Japanese cities were built around castles, harbours and temples) because the entire city was developed to surround and support Zenko-ji.
Known as the “Temple of the Benevolent Light”; Zenko-ji was founded in the 7th century (642) when the first Buddhist image (a hibutsu - secret Buddha) was enshrined there by Yoshimitsu Honda. The hibutsu has never been shown to the public and is rumoured to be the first Buddha statue to ever be brought to Japan. Every seven years, a replica of the statue (Maedachi Honzon) is shown publicly every Spring in a ceremony called Gokaicho where thousands upon thousands make the pilgrimage to see the replica.
Zenko-ji was established before Buddhism in Japan was divided into separate sects with Zenko-ji belonging to both the Tendai and Jodoshu schools of Mahayana Buddhism. Surrounding Zenko-ji are multiple shukubo (traditional smaller Japanese temples - 39 in total ) belonging to both Buddhist sects which offer accommodation and meals for the monks, people on pilgrimage and visitors
I purchased my first ever Daruma, fittingly this special golden one which is only available at Zenko-ji every 7 years in accordance with the Gokaicho ceremony.
I was lucky enough to be in Nagano for the 2022 ceremony and participate in its events, where one can see the replica for a brief moment, touch the statue of Binzuru (a famous physician said to be Buddha’s follower) to cure one’s ailments, and walk the inner prayer chamber down a narrow dark corridor, where worshippers try to touch a metal key hanging on the wall, in order to gain enlightenment. The key represents the Key to the Western Paradise of the Amida Buddha. These were the only photos we were allowed to take, after rubbing the smaller statue, no photos or filming was allowed.
Unfortunately when I visited I was unable to stay in a shukubo as they had been booked months in advance for the Gokaicho, however I was still able to enjoy a traditional Buddhist lunch at one of the shukubo before I hopped on the shinkansen bound for Kanazawa.
Winter Wonderland in Nagano
Japan’s 4th biggest prefecture is also one of the country’s snowiest regions especially in the mountains. For lovers of winter sports, this is a place to visit. Popular mountain areas are Hakuba Happo One, Nozawa Onsen, Madarao Mountain etc. Besides snowsports, one can enjoy soaking in onsen with wonderful snowy views or see the famous snow monkeys enjoying the onsen themselves. Its definitely easier to get around in a car during winter as long as you’re comfortable driving in heavy snow! However it’s imperative that you have 4WD and snow tires/snow chains and an international drivers license.
ACCESS
BY TRAIN
JR HOKURIKU SHINKANSEN | 80-100mins | approx 8000JPY | JAPAN RAIL PASS & JR EAST NAGANO NIIGATA AREA PASS
BY BUS
HIGHWAY BUS | 3.5hours | approx 6000-8000JPY | dependent on the bus company & date of travel
Discount bus operators such as Willer offer one way fares from around 2000 yen.
Online reservations can be made through Willer and Japan Bus Online.
OTHER PLACES TO STAY / THINGS TO DO
Oumeitei Tsuji Ryokan- a traditional shukubo temple stay by Chusha shrine.
Kai Matsumoto- one of Hoshino Resorts onsen ryokan - a boutique property in Asama Onsen
Matsumoto Honbako- a historic onsen ryokan turned into a modern onsen hotel celebrating books
Sacred Togakushi Shrine - walk this sacred cedar path in the mountain forest to this magical shrine
Hakuba Happo One - spend winter in this famous winter sports destination with silky onsen waters
TRAVEL FURTHER
Fukui Prefecture - visit Tojinbo cliffs, soak in relaxing onsen and eat yummy seafood.
Ishikawa Prefecture- discover a prefecture full of rich arts, culture, history and fabulous onsen
Niigata Prefecture - coming soon
Toyama Prefecture- a charming prefecture beautiful in Spring and with delicious seafood
