What is Kaiseki?
Kaiseki in one of it’s most simplest definitions is the serving of seasonal Japanese flavours, building from light to heavy tastes, presented on an array of beautiful traditional ceramics (often decorated with details of the current season’s flora).
It is the haute-cuisine of Japanese cooking.
When selecting a Ryokan to stay at, the food is of equal importance to me as is the private onsen I will be enjoying. I will always include meals in my Ryokan stays, as it’s just such a wonderful and enjoyable experience.
There are actually two styles of Kaiseki:
Kaiseki Ryori (懐石料理) is the traditional Japanese multi-course dinner which you will be served at Ryokans.
Cha-Kaiseki (茶懐石) from which Kaiseki originally stems from, is the simple traditional meal served before ceremonial tea.
What Order Will The Dishes Arrive? And How Many?
The range and amount of dishes you will be served are up to the Chef’s discretion. Generally you will find most Kaiseki dinners have anywhere between 8 - 18 little dishes, depending on the season, the amount of produce available and simply the Ryokan’s preference. Sometimes the order of the slightly heavier dishes may alternate (like the agemono, nabemono, yakimono) but this is an example of the general order.
Recently I’ve noticed some Ryokans giving the option of a “simple/light” Kaiseki dinner as well as the “classic” Kaiseki (terminology differs for every Ryokan).
There are always options to have more “premium” style Kaiseki (options of Wagyu/whole fish etc). I prefer the normal “classic" Kaiseki as they are often delicious and have more than enough food for me.
However if this is a “once in a lifetime” experience for you, add those extra premium food items!
Below are some photo examples and brief descriptions of dishes you may be served at your Kaiseki!
THE BEGINNING
SAKIZUKE
先附
A starting appetizer, often a small cup of regional/ homemade umeshu/sake in my experience
HASSUN
八寸
The second course, which
sets the seasonal theme.
Typically one kind of nigiri and several smaller side dishes
THE MIDDLE
MUKOZUKE
向付
OTSUKURI
お造り
a sliced dish of seasonal sashimi.
SUIMONO
吸い物
THE FIRST “FUTAMONO”
蓋物
A "lidded dish"; typically a soup.
AGEMONO
揚げ物
A deep fried dish; typically seasonal tempura, some fresh seafood & local vegetables
YAKIMONO
焼物
Some type of flame grilled main, can be fish or meat. Presented generally in a dish of pretty pottery/earthernware.
TAKIAWASE
煮合
Generally bright vegetables
served with meat, fish or tofu.
The ingredients are simmered separately.
SUZAKANA
酢肴
SUNOMONO
酢の物
Vinegared appetizer: a small dish generally of vegetables served midway in between the mains generally to cleanse the palate.
WANMONO
椀物
THE SECOND “FUTAMONO”
蓋物
Another type of lidded soup dish served in between the mains.
MUSHIMONO
蒸し物
A steamed dish (often CHAWANMUSHI | 茶碗蒸し
ie. steamed egg custard) filled
with seasonal ingredients like mushrooms, pieces of seafood, local vegetables & most likely a gingko nut.
NAKA CHOKO
中猪口
another palate-cleanser; may be a light, acidic soup.
NABEMONO
鍋物
a type of SHIIZAKANA - 強肴
The soup hot pot dish, can be served with tofu, vegetables and/or meat
This particular one is an Aomori Prefecture speciality.
SHIIZAKANA
強肴
another main dish which should
be of substantial “stomach filling” nature, also signifies the kaiseki
is coming towards its end.
Can be a meat/fish/hotpot dish.
SHIIZAKANA
強肴
the 2nd night
remember my tip about staying more than one night… and the food becomes even better… this was part of our SHIIZAKANA on our 2nd night… so much food!
THE END
THE SHOKUJI
GOHAN 御飯
KONOMONO
香の物
TOMEWAN 止椀
rice dish made with seasonal ingredients with seasonal pickled veggies & a miso-based soup
MIZUMONO
水物
a seasonal dessert/local dessert specialty
eg. fruit, some types of sweets, ice cream or cake.
NOTE:
HIYASHI BACHI | 冷し鉢 is a dish in the Kaiseki repertoire that I have never experienced, as traditionally it’s only served in the summer, when I’m normally overseas. The dish is meant to consist of chilled, lightly cooked vegetables.
READY FOR YOUR ONSEN RYOKAN STAY?
read our “Little Tips and Travel Advice” to have the best onsen ryokan stay
read all about “Onsen Etiquette” so you feel comfortable with the cultural norms in onsen bathing
Wondering what happens once you check in? Here’s the indepth guide.
STILL WONDERING WHERE TO STAY?
discover our favourite “Traditional Onsen Ryokan Stays” (all personally experienced!)