Takamiya Miyamaso

RyokanJAPANOnsen TownOnsen RyokanTohokuYamagata Prefecture
Written By Lia

An Iconic Traditional Onsen Ryokan in Zao Onsen - famous for the Snow Monsters

Zao Onsen in Yamagata is one of Japan’s most beloved and popular onsen town destinations especially in winter for the stunning, mystical Snow Monsters “Juhyo” (the gigantic snow-encrusted trees) that cover the mountain. However many don’t realise how beautiful Zao area is in all the seasons, especially Autumn, when the leaves begin to change to their vibrant yellow and red hues.

Access to Zao Onsen requires a couple of changes, a direct shinkasen from Tokyo station to Yamagata station (~2.5 hrs) — then board the local Yamagata Kotsu bus to Zao Onsen Bus Terminal. Many of the onsen ryokan will organise shuttle bus pick up from the terminal if organised in advance.

There are plenty of accommodation options available in Zao Onsen but no stay is more iconic than the historic over 300 year old Takamiya Miyamaso.

Click Here: Jump to Read “My Personal Thoughts” & “Stay Details”

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I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Every property and destination featured on this website has been personally experienced by the writer, and are their personal thoughts and opinions.

Stay in an Iconic Family Run Historic Onsen Ryokan.

For 16 generations, Takamiya Miyamaso has been an steadfast presence of longevity in Zao Onsen. This historic beautifully built wooden onsen ryokan inn is a time slip to a Japan of the past, with its deep black wooden beams, jewel coloured accents and cozy Showa Retro atmosphere. It is currently helmed by the current chairman of the Takamiya Hotel Group and 16th generation family head Yaheiji Okazaki and one day his son Hiroto Okazaki will become the 17th generation family head and assume the name of Yaheiji as his father, grandfather and ancestors did before him. Today Hiroto-san manages the day-to-day operations and leadership of the family business.

Relax Away in the Nostalgic, Cozy Lobby & Common Areas.

Step through the sliding doors, slip into a pair of indoor slippers and set your mind to relax mode as you enter the warm, welcoming interiors of the inn’s lobby. Take a seat on the comfortable arm chairs and just take a moment before heading to the room booked.

Treat Yourself to the Ultimate Private Luxury of the Hinakura Villa

There are 18 rooms to choose from at Takamiya Miyamaso of varying styles from traditional Japanese tatami rooms, to rooms with more modern Japanese-Western aesthetics to the beautiful RIAN SANSUI suite rooms (these feature relaxing open air baths - not onsen) designed by Kiyoyuki Okuyama, a world renowned industrial designer from Yamagata prefecture. Their Royal Suite room is the epitome of luxury and features a private open air onsen bath.

However if you want to go one step further, then book yourself a stay at the stand alone Hinakura Villa, a traditional Kura (storehouse) that has been wonderfully renovated and restored to enjoy a stay of complete luxury and privacy. Yes, it has it’s own private open air onsen bath too!

Unwind in a Home Away From Home Experience

I was honestly blown away by Hinakura and I’ve stayed in quite a few renovated Japanese kura storehouses and other unique stays. First off I didn’t expect THIS MUCH SPACE! As you first enter Hinakura, you’re greeted by a large spacious living room (top right photo above) which is bigger than many Japanese apartments! as well as sliding doors which lead to a ridiculously large tatami room with more cozy armchairs and beanbags (top left photo above). Plus you also have a kitchen available if you wish to cook and you have your own private door access to reach some of their other onsen baths.

Step Through the White Kura Doors into Your Private Abode

The rest of Hinakura is split between two levels, as you step through the white Kura doors you will notice a wooden staircase leading to the second bedroom upstairs. Do note as this is a traditional storehouse, the staircase reflects the design from that time period - so it’s the steps are a little narrow and high.

Upstairs guests can relax in their room with high ceilings and traditional wooden beam framework, creating a cozy, warm atmosphere. The upstairs has its own modern ensuite bathroom as well.

Downstairs is where I decided to sleep during my stay. The ground (first) floor has multiple areas you can enjoy. When you first enter, you will reach the charming living room where you can make yourself some tea, lounge around on the couch — then one can move to the traditional washitsu (tatami) room where you can also spend hours relaxing.

At the back of the Kura is where you will find the other bedroom tucked into the cozy alcove nook, which is where I loved curling up after my Kaiseki dinner feast and fell into a deep, relaxed slumber.

The Floor Map of the Hinakura Villa

Have a Long Peaceful Soak in Your Own Private Onsen

Right next to the bedroom nook on the ground (first) floor is another ensuite bathroom which leads to Hinakura’s spacious open air private onsen. I spent a lot of my stay just dipping in and out of this glorious onsen — having an afternoon soak, a pre dinner soak, an after dinner soak, a before bedtime soak… you get the idea.

It’s a very good size, so you can fit a few people in the bath and it won’t feel overcrowded if its you and your family staying. It’s perfect for those who still are a bit shy with public onsen, who have tattoos or who perhaps have children* or who simply just want a private, relaxing time all to themselves.

*please note children staying in Hinakura must be minimum over 11 years old.

Reservable Private Onsen Bath

If you happen to book one of the other rooms at Takamiya Miyamaso and are still a little reserved about using a public onsen - the inn has two private reservable onsen baths made of Shigaraki pottery that you can enjoy. The sessions are for 50minutes, with a fee of 3000JPY per session. You can simply make a reservation when you arrive at check-in at the lobby.

Try All the Different Public Onsen Baths

Takamiya Miyamaso owns three of it’s own onsen water sources, so guests can enjoy an abundance of free flowing 100% gensen kakenagashi onsen water during their stay. The main public onsen “Seseragi no Yu” features baths all made from natural stones sourced from Zao itself. Its an unusual design where the indoor onsen, foot bath and open air onsen are spread out in an almost terraced design resulting in a fun little mini exploration to try each one.

Please note the curtain for Seseragi no Yu is changed daily for men and women.

Bathe in the Longevity Onsen

Guests can also enjoy another public onsen whilst staying in the inn. The “Longevity” bath is a large circular hinoki (cypress) semi -open air onsen, where you can relax and hear the gentle murmur of the Sugawa river and feel the breeze upon your face as you soak. The onsen curtain also switches daily between men and women.

Go for a Slow Walk Around Town.

One of the loveliest aspects of staying in an inn in an onsen town, is that you can wander around the little community and discover the town itself — especially if you’re someone who doesn’t only want to stay in the inn. From small cafes and little boutiques, to exploring the local shrine (Sugawa Onsen Shrine) located next to Takamiya Miyamaso, to pretty pockets of nature — I was delighted to spot the two towering trees growing together that reminded me of Totoro!

Take a Break in One of the Local Cozy Eateries

I love it when onsen towns have cute little eateries to try, it especially makes it a lot easier to find something to eat for lunch if you’re staying multiple nights. If you need a break from Japanese cuisine, pop into “Have a Good Slice” for some delicious fresh pizza slices, plates like ‘chicken over rice’ and salad options.

If you just want a little morning or afternoon sweet treat, drop into the pretty cafe Takayu Manju Yunoka where you can have some coffees, teas, other drinks paired with freshly baked manju, ice cream, parfait and other little desserts.

Enjoy the Night Time Illuminations

There’s something magical and mystical about an onsen town alit at night, lanterns all aglow (especially if you happen to visit in winter with snow falling all around you). Do take the time to stroll around Zao Onsen at night - if you love night time photography - you will be able to find some beautiful shots, especially of Sugawa Onsen shrine’s gate next to the inn. Lights for the shrine’s gate turn off at 9pm.

Feast on a Sumptuous Seasonal Kaiseki Dinner

If you’ve been following my onsen/Japan travels for awhile or reading this website - you will know I will always choose a Japanese meal over a Western meal at an onsen ryokan. There’s a reason why kaiseki is considered the haute cuisine of Japanese food, and the seasonal delights are always something to look forward too. Takamiya Miyamaso’s didn’t disappoint! I especially love in the Autumn season when I am served dobinmushi - a traditional Japanese broth served in a teapot with simmered chicken/prawns, matsutake mushroom flavoured with soy sauce and citrus juice. Its so heartwarming and just makes me instantly aware I’m in Autumn (Fall) season.

MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS

FOOD

A traditional, seasonal Japanese Kaiseki feast is always my favourite choice for an onsen ryokan, but sometimes it can be A LOT of food. I found the amount served at Takamiya Miyamaso a perfect amount, especially for first time travellers experiencing Kaiseki. Loved the fact I was served dobinmushi - which traditionally appears in Autumn (though it can appear across the seasons). The clear nabe broth and autumn vegetables was also a highlight for me, as it was a perfect cleanser for the heavier dishes. For my husband it could have been a little small but he eats a ridiculous amount.

ONSEN

I love it when there are several public onsen baths I can try in an inn. It just makes the stay even more fun and relaxing and gives more options to also have a soak potentially by one’s self. Having reservable private onsen is perfect for those who are shy, have tattoos and are staying in the regular rooms. The milky-hued onsen water in Zao is of a rare lower pH value (typically ranging from 1.25 - 1.9) so its known as a "strongly acidic sulfur spring.”
Subsequently remember to do a final wash off at the shower/washing area after you've finished bathing.

ROOM AMBIANCE

Takamiya Miyamaso’s rooms are wonderfully spacious, ranging from 25m2 - 110m2, so there is a great range of options depending on how big your group is. The rooms are generally traditional tatami rooms with a delightful Showa Retro vibe, some do have western beds, raised futon beds for those who aren’t comfortable using futons flat upon the tatami. It gives a lovely cozy, homey vibe.

VENUE AMBIANCE

The cozy, homey vibe is present throughout the entire property. Remember, this is a historic inn (over 300 years old), so the interiors reflect that with its darkened wooden walls and beams, antique decor, low ceilings and winding little nooks and crannies. It’s a throwback to Japan’s past, so for those who love history - you will greatly enjoy a stay here. As it’s a traditional inn, do be aware some areas may be difficult for those with accessibility considerations to think of.

SURROUNDING AREA

Zao Onsen is a great little town to explore during the year, especially if you like the outdoors. Snow season is the most popular with the majestic snow monsters forming on the mountains a great draw for visitors and for those who love snowboarding and skiing. During the other seasons, enjoy the quieter downtime, with walks and mini hikes and getting back into nature.

TAKAMIYA MIYAMASO (at time of stay)

  • COST: starting from ~25,000JPY per person per night

IF FULLY BOOKED — EXPLORE OTHER OPTIONS BELOW

OTHER PLACES TO STAY/THINGS TO DO

Sagiya Sansorai - soak away a night or two in Kaminoyama onsen town, directly accessible from Tokyo station via shinkansen

Ginzan Onsen - discover this picturesque onsen town lit with old lamps, magical in winter

Takimikan - the prettiest onsen ryokan in Ginzan with a stunning outdoor rotenburo.

TRAVEL FURTHER

Akita Prefecture - love beautiful rotenburo onsen in nature, make time to visit Akita

Iwate Prefecture - known as the last frontier of a wild Japan

Fukushima Prefecture - the 3rd largest prefecture in Japan has many onsen to enjoy

Discover my Personal Favourite Traditional Onsen Ryokan - a constantly updated list sharing traditional stays I’ve fallen in love with