Sagiya Sansorai
A Tranquil Stay in a Quiet Onsen Town
I love when I can hop on a direct shinkansen from Tokyo station (or any direct train really) that will take me straight to a quiet onsen town! It’s actually a little rare when I think about it (normally one has to at least take a local train/bus/drive after arriving at a main station) - but there’s something so nice about just sitting all the way on the comfy Japanese shinkansen, eating a delicious bento, reading a good book, watching the scenery change from skyscrapers to countryside… then suddenly the voice announces that the next stop is your destination.
So if you want an easily accessible onsen ryokan stay from Tokyo station - book a ticket for the Yamagata Shinkansen (the Tsubasa Line one) - end destination - Kaminoyama Onsen Station - a historic onsen castle town. An easy 15min -20min walk from the station (or organise their free shuttle bus collection - time dependent) lies the charming Sagiya Sansorai, a single story onsen ryokan inn.
Click Here: Jump to Read “My Personal Thoughts” & “Stay Details”
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The Story of Sagiya Sansorai
Nestled amidst vibrant rice fields with a backdrop of the stunning Zao mountain range is this cozy onsen ryokan with only 12 rooms. Born in 1931, Sansorai was once known as Mikiya and today lives on in its next chapter as Mikiya Sansorai 三木屋 参蒼来 ( other names used are Sagiya Sansorai and Sagiya Hotel). The hotel’s interior was redesigned in the image of “Yamagata’s Nature Inn” with warm wooden tones, rich jewel colours, natural elements and large windows to create a space that celebrated both the history of the original Mikiya and the beauty of the surrounding nature.
Slip off your shoes and start your stay of relaxation.
Sip Complimentary Tea & Coffee in the Cozy Lounge
During your stay, enjoy the complimentary coffee and tea in their Cafe Lounge "San", where you can relax in beautiful plush, modern chairs crafted from Tendo Mokko (a world-renowned woodworking furniture brand that is from Yamagata). Have fun choosing one of their pretty pottery mugs for your afternoon drink.
Rest Comfortably in Beautiful Japanese-style Modern Rooms
Sansorai is split into two wings “Kijine” and “Kiyose” which both offer lovely changing seasonal views of the traditional Japanese gardens, the impressive landscapes of rice fields and mountain ranges. Several guest rooms styles can be chosen from, from Japanese-Western suites with private open air onsen, Japanese style rooms with indoor onsen and traditional tatami rooms.
Immerse Yourself in Your Own Private Onsen
There’s nothing more relaxing than having a room with a private open air onsen, so if you want to treat yourself - definitely book a stay with one of their suites. The rooms’ onsen design style depends on the room - but it can range from a lovely wooden onsen or a cut stone onsen bath - both equally perfect to relax away in.
Takamatsu no Yu - the Public Onsen
Sansorai draws its onsen waters from its own source, where the onsen flows freely and abundantly. Here is where guests can enjoy the onsen type: gensen kakenagashi (100% free flowing). Guests can enjoy both a spacious indoor or outdoor onsen bath, with stunning views of the Zao’s mountain landscape and surrounding scenery. With its higher pH level, its onsen waters are silky smooth with a lotion-like quality like a “bijin no yu” (beauty onsen). As always remember to pre-wash before entering the onsen.
The men and women’s onsen baths are identical to each other, so the baths do not swap over.
Taste the Deliciousness of Zao & Yamagata Beef
With fresh vegetables and rice grown from their our fields, the “Minori Kaiseki” meals at Sansorai are evocative of the countryside of Yamagata and its flavours, with dishes of Zao beef steak and Yamagata beef shabu-shabu depending on the season. Meals are served in their dining room and depending what plan you select at booking - one can enjoy a free flowing nomihodai - all you can drink menu with your meal
MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS
FOOD
A sweet fusion of local, seasonal ingredients and produce presented in a more modern interpretation with Japanese techniques. Its a perfect choice for those that would like a blend of both Western & Japanese cooking styles. The amount as well fills one’s stomach up yet you won’t feel overstuffed or bloated or worried that too much food is coming. Though for my husband it may be a little less than he likes (but he’s a big eater!). Also if your plan includes the “all you can drink” option for dinner - this is very worth it! Breakfast was a perfect amount as well - not too much - not too little - great for me who had, had several big breakfasts prior.
ONSEN
Love the silky onsen waters at Sansorai - even more so knowing its gensen kakenagashi (the purest, best type of onsen - 100% free flowing). The public onsen both indoor and outdoor is spacious and relaxing. I feel like one can have many moments to themselves soaking in the onsen, since there are only 12 rooms and several of them have their own private onsen. Though there were other guests when I stayed there - I still had moments to the public onsen all to myself.
Having a room with private open air onsen is always a treat, and I did spend most of my time there just relaxing, soaking it all in with a good book in hand.
ROOM AMBIANCE
Sansorai has some amazingly spacious rooms with private open air onsen - the largest room is 100m2 (fits 6 people), another 80m2 (also fits 6 people) and the rest range from 30-40m2. My room with its private onsen is perfect for two people. A combination of Japanese and Western design aesthetics decorate the rooms, from traditional sliding shoji doors, tatami floors, tokunoma alcoves paired with low western style futon beds and comfortable modern style seating. So its great for those who want to enjoy a traditional Japanese style but are perhaps a little hesitant about sleeping on a futon (especially if you have bad knees).
The smell of the wood, tatami then paired with the fresh air and onsen steam as you soak in your private onsen - will just wash your cares away.
VENUE AMBIANCE
Cozy and welcoming, Sansorai as a one story inn feels wonderfully homey. Once you slip off your shoes, into slippers - the earthen/white walls, wooden beams and plush jewel tones highlighting one of Yamagata’s best wood artisans will instantly have guests experiencing the romance of Japan’s traditions and eras. Though to be fair - I did spend most of my relaxing in my room.
SURROUNDING AREA
Kaminoyama Onsen Town is a quaint onsen town, beloved for its hiking trails, nature walks, its castle and especially its healing beautifying onsen waters. There are some cute cafes and small local shops (one of the most popular is the Yamagata Pudding Sweets & Cafe) in the area as well. So depending on how you would like to spend your trip, one can definitely go exploring or simply stay in. I did a bit of both - as I also got caught out in a bit of a rain and strong wind - so then made a mad dash back to the onsen ryokan.
SAGIYA SANSORAI FACTS (at time of stay)
COST: starting from ~22,000JPY per person per night
MEALS INCLUDED: Breakfast & Dinner (depending on plan)
CHECK IN/CHECK OUT TIME: 1500 / 1000
PAYMENT: Cash or Credit
ROOMS: 12
ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF: Some
WEBSITE: SANSORAI
IG: @SANSORAI1931
OTHER PLACES TO STAY/THINGS TO DO
Takamiya Miyamaso - stay a night or two in Zao Onsen’s oldest onsen ryokan, still run by the same family for over 300 years.
Ginzan Onsen - discover this picturesque onsen town lit with old lamps, magical in winter
Takimikan - the prettiest onsen ryokan in Ginzan with a stunning outdoor rotenburo.
TRAVEL FURTHER
Akita Prefecture - love beautiful rotenburo onsen in nature, make time to visit Akita
Iwate Prefecture - known as the last frontier of a wild Japan
Fukushima Prefecture - the 3rd largest prefecture in Japan has many onsen to enjoy
Discover my Personal Favourite Traditional Onsen Ryokan