RETURNING TO HAKUBA HAPPO ONE

Over a decade ago, I visited Hakuba for the first time to try my hand at snowboarding, though I thoroughly enjoyed it, I ended up falling in love with onsen more as the way to pass the coldness of a winter in Japan, so imagine my delight when I discovered that the onsen waters of Hakuba Happo-One held in fact the highest pH 11.2 value of onsen water in all of Japan, meaning it’s benefits yet gentleness to the skin are the best.

It meant returning to Hakuba, to enjoy these onsen waters personally, for a lovely midweek (or perfect for a long weekend) getaway!

WINTER SPORTS NEAR TOKYO

Hakuba is a perfect destination to combine not only some onsen relaxation but some winter sports like snowboarding, skiing and even ski-jumping if you’re keen to have a more active getaway.

Nagano Prefecture hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics which catapulted Hakuba onto a global stage, so you can bet the powder will be divine for all you snow lovers!

TIP: Green season in Hakuba (ie. spring, summer, autumn) is a great time to enjoy hiking, escape the summer’s intense heat as well as soaking in onsen,

NAGOMI ASHIYU

Even if you have limited time, one can enjoy the relaxing nature of onsen with the three free local ashiyu (onsen footbath) scattered around Hakuba Village.

Nagomi no Yu is located in the parking lot of Happo no Yu and is across the road from the very popular Lawson’s convenience store (apparently the convenience store with the highest sales across all of Japan in the winter season!)

Two other ashiyu are located in the town, one by JR Hakuba station, the other in the local town area.

HAKUBA HAPPO’S MIRACLE HOT SPRING

Having discovered that Hakuba Happo Onsen waters held the highest pH 11.2 in all of Japan, the investigative part of me wanted to know why, when, how and what made it so special, so of course I deep dived and talked to the locals who are so proud of their area having such healing waters.

To understand how it’s occurred, one must understand the unique geology of Japan’s islands which are divided into Northeastern Japan and Southwestern Japan by a major fault called the Fossa Magna. Running through the centre of Hakuba Village along the Himekawa River is the western border of this fault called the Itoigawa-Shizuoka Tectonic Line.

Deep within the earth from which the Happo-One Mountain Ranges rise above, were found a great belt of Serpentinite rock which is formed when ocean water inside the oceanic plate reacts to the minerals found deep in the core of the Earth’s mantle (in the simplest terms).

Hakuba is one of largest land areas where one can find exposed Serpentinite Rock, and with the volcanic activity prevalent in Japan, this combination of Serpentinite reacting with the natural hot spring has resulted in the onsen waters having not only a high pH value, but also the presence of dissolved hydrogen (which means the water has antioxidant properties) and very few types of “bacteria” compared to other hot springs.

Continual research by scientists in Japan, and worldwide is ongoing as they assess the potential benefits of what the locals call a “miracle hot spring”. Though I am not in any so way a scientist, I personally found this history and discovery fascinating and wonder what else will be discovered, but for now I am equally happy to just relax and soak away in the hot, healing waters of onsen.

THE PUBLIC ONSEN

There are 3 public onsen to enjoy throughout Hakuba Village, perfect to rest one’s sore muscles after snowboarding, skiing in winter or hiking in the other seasons.

ALL THREE ARE TATTOO FRIENDLY!

Happo no Yu & Mimizuku no Yu have both indoor and outdoor onsen to enjoy with a view of the mountain ranges. Both of them also allow cashless payments now

Whilst Sato no Yu is a beautiful traditional indoor hexagonal onsen right in the heart of the village (payment only in cash)

(L-R) Happo no Yu, Sato no Yu, Mimizuku no Yu

SHIMOFURIMIYA HOSONOSUWA SHRINE

Hakuba Village local shrine is definitely worth a stop in. Right in the centre of the village, this has to be one of the most picturesque winter shrine-scapes I’ve seen in a while.

No fancy ema, or omiyage to buy, it just simply exists almost otherworldly.

During the Autumn Equinox (September 23), the Hosonosuwa Autumn Festival is celebrated where a stone omikoshi bearing a 370kg Serpentinite rock is carried around both Happo and Happoguchi districts heading towards the main shrine to express gratitude to the mountain gods for their rich blessings.

FUJIYA

Hakuba has long been popular with expats living in Japan, and you will find a steady stream of delicious western food, of craft beer, lush wine and other yumminess.

However you can still enjoy delightful local gems, like Fujiya (right by JR Hakuba station on the 2nd floor) run by the same family for multiple generations where they serve simple local hearty Japanese mountain fare including the famed shinshu soba of the region.

I decided to swap my soba for udon this time though - one can also have larger portions of the noodles or order a teishoku set if really hungry (which has rice and other side dishes too). Apparently a lot of locals are fans of their Japanese curry too!


ACCESS


BY TRAIN

JR TOKYO STATION - JR NAGANO STATION

HOKURIKU SHINKANSEN

~80-100mins | ~ 8140JPY OW

JAPAN RAIL PASS & JR EAST NAGANO NIIGATA AREA PASS

FOLLOWED BY BUS

JR NAGANO STATION (EAST EXIT) - HAKUBA HAPPO ONE BUS TERMINAL

BUS STOP #25 (reservations) or #26 (no reservations)

2400JPY ADULTS | 1400JPY KIDS OW

~ 75mins

DIRECT BUSES - HAKUBA HAPPO ONE BUS TERMINAL

NARITA AIRPORT (~6 - 7 hrs)

~13000JPY ADULTS OW

~ 11000JPY KIDS OW

HANEDA AIRPORT (~ 5.5 - 6.5 hrs)

~ 9300JPY ADULTS OW

~ 7300JPY KIDS OW

SHINJUKU BUS TERMINAL (~ 5hrs)

~ 6400JPY ADULTS OW


EXTENDED TRIP INSPIRATION

JR SHINJUKU STATION - JR MATSUMOTO STATION

LIMITED EXPRESS AZUSA TRAINS (~ 2.5hrs) | ~ 6620JPY OW

explore Matsumoto for a couple nights

*

JR MATSUMOTO STATION - JR HAKUBA STATION

LIMITED EXPRESS AZUSA TRAINS ( ~ 1hr) | ~2190JPY OW

or

LOCAL TRAIN “OITO LINE” ( ~ 2hrs) | ~ 1170JPY OW

DIRECT TRAIN ROUTE

JR SHINJUKU STATION - JR HAKUBA STATION

LIMITED EXPRESS AZUSA TRAINS ( ~3.75 - 4 hrs) | approx 8050JPY OW

(accommodation shuttle/local bus/taxi from JR Hakuba to Hakuba Happo-One Bus Terminal)


WEBSITE: HAKUBA HAPPO ONE | INSTAGRAM: @HAKUBAHAPPOONE

 

FOLLOW MY ADVENTURES ON @RYOKANWANDERINGS

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