Visit a Quieter Side of Hokkaido in Winter
Hokkaido is so vast (in fact its Japan’s biggest prefecture/region) that there are 12 airports scattered around the region to reach its varying towns and cities. Most people will fly into New Chitose Airport in Sapporo for their first initial Hokkaido adventures. However if you’re like me, who’s ready to explore some other areas - make sure to research which domestic airport suits your travel plans (if you’re flying). Hakodate is a popular choice for the port town and if you want to reach the bottom of Hokkaido swiftly.
In summer I tend to fly in to Asahikawa domestic airport if I want to visit the flower fields and work my way down Hokkaido via train and bus. This winter trip I wanted to head to another part of Hokkaido so we flew to Kushiro Airport, which is the closest to the Akangawa river famed for the Tancho (the wild red crowned cranes that you can see in December - January). Initially I did hope to see these beautiful birds in the wild, but then I realised La Vista Akangawa is a little further down the river and we didn’t want to drive — so it became a relaxing onsen stay only instead. Plus I was honestly just exhausted from the year. Just gives me another reason to return!
Click Here: Jump to Read “My Personal Thoughts” & “Stay Details”
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A Welcoming Lodge-style Onsen Inn Surrounded by Wild Nature
Located by the Akan river, this sprawling inn stands alone with only the trees, the sound of the river and local, wild animals as company. The lobby is stunning! You walk in and instantly are greeted by the high ceilings and wide windows showing you the gorgeous scenery outside.
Plush armchairs, dark warm wooden tones instantly make you feel relaxed as you wait to check in. After a long day of travel - simply couldn’t wait to get to our room. The staff were so friendly and welcoming as we had also arrived a little bit earlier, yet they organised everything so we could enter our room promptly.
Cozy Winter Days Spent in Comfy Modern Japanese Style Rooms
Our room was perfect for two people! Normally I would have booked a double bed, but they were sold out so I reserved a twin room (if memory serves it was just the standard twin with a river view… essentially the moderate twin rooms just have a larger room space, and the economy twin has a view of the parking lot) and hubby and I simply moved the bedside table to one side and pushed our beds together (we of course returned everything back to normal before we checked out!)
Honestly it’s a great room space in design as you’ve got the bedroom tucked into an alcove at one end facing the windows, so you wake up to the beautiful views and if you’re like my husband who needs more darkness to sleep well, the curtains/blinds are effective.
Then you can choose to spend the day relaxing in your “living” area perhaps reading a book or having a seat right by the window to watch the winter scenery. I love it when you’ve got extra little spaces so it makes you feel like you’re having a home away from home experience.
Or you can just spend time soaking away in your private onsen bath, which I spent a lot of time doing.
note: if you’re a family, they have larger rooms available with 2 separate bedrooms (able to sleep 4- 6 people). Read more below in “my personal thoughts”
Soak in Your Private Onsen
The private onsen was the perfect size for the room. You could potentially fit two average sized adults in there. Hubby and I both fit (he’s about 182cm tall, and I’m about 163cm tall) but we’re both I guess slim.
I was super happy the window opened, so you could see some of the scenery and enjoy a cool winter breeze against the skin - a perfect contrast to the toasty temperature of the onsen. I would have loved it even more if the window could have opened fully, so I could have a full view, but alas not the case.
Relax Away in the Open-Air Rotenburo
Kawakami no Yu is the main public onsen, and it leads almost practically straight out to the river. Fitting, as the onsen water flows directly from the inn’s own private source which was found right by the river. It’s a simple hot spring, which means its gentle on the skin, suitable for all ages and is sad to be beneficial for muscle and joint pain, sensitivity to the cold and fatigue along with other ailments.
If you’re comfortable with public onsen, you should definitely at least go soak in their main bath at least once during your stay. Regardless of all the private onsen available, there’s just something magical about bathing surrounded by the fresh air and beautiful nature.
A Little Extra Onsen Etiquette
Though not the largest onsen, its a good size considering all the rooms have private onsen and there are three reservable private onsen. Whenever I went, I was generally by myself for a decent period of time and when others joined - I simply moved indoors or left as I had, had already plenty of time to appreciate the snowy outdoors.
note: Another unsaid rule/etiquette (or simply consideration of others) — if you’ve had the onsen to yourself for a time (especially outside) and a prime spot to soak - its always nice to move to a different location so someone else can enjoy the view.
Three Reservable Private Onsen to Enjoy
Staying guests can enjoy three different reservable onsen; Hoshi no Yu (Star Bath), Kaze no Yu (Wind Bath) and Tsuki no Yu (Moon Bath). All are semi open air, with sliding window doors — though some are quite stiff to open in the winter since the water freezes around it - so I wouldn’t force opening them.
All are a decent size and can comfortably fit 2 average sized adults. Hubby and I fit comfortably in all of them and just enjoyed having a different onsen experience with wider views.
Remember:
There is no reservation, you simply go see if one is available — there’s a main sign outside the private onsen area which lights up showing you if one is available or not. They are available 24 hours. Each have their own mini changing area and wash area as well.
However remember to be considerate to other guests. Though there is no official time restriction, try not to exceed 1hr in total. Honestly, I would say on average most people stay between 30 - 45 mins which includes disrobing, showering and dressing one’s self again.
Dine on Heartwarming Local, Seasonal Cuisine
The Kaiseki meals at La Vista were lovely, a nice array of local, season produce, prettily presented . I was very happy to have the seafood shabu shabu instead of a meat one (quite rare!), and the sashimi selection was nice — though as a sashimi lover I would have preferred a couple more slices of each fish served. Otherwise a nice and tasty representation of the regional area and of course dinner the second night was more elevated than the first.
Have a Late Night Snack!
A popular feature of many of this hotel brand’s onsen inn — is that they often have a little late night noodle bar that opens between 9ish - 10ish (exact times dependent on each property).
It’s perfect for late night snackers like myself or guests that perhaps could have a had a bigger dinner (hubby constantly).
The noodle bowls are mini, but you’re welcome to have more servings. Obviously though finish your first bowl, then line up again for the next. Let others have a first bowl too.
Each inn serves their own little regional take on the noodle dish — so it may be different noodles, different broth and some other little extra toppings.
Start the Day having Breakfast with a View
Breakfast at La Vista is a nice simple traditional Japanese breakfast (or Western - they will ask you at check in or the night before what you prefer.) Think grilled fish, little side dishes and of course paired with pickles, miso soup and rice. I particularly liked that my rice was cooked in the Kamameshi style (kettle rice). Kamameshi is when the rice is cooked and served in a an iron/metal or ceramic pot over an open small flame. The rice is typically mixed and cooked with vegetables, seafood or meat, seasoned with soy sauce, sake, or mirin. I always associate it more with autumn and winter as well. A lovely way to begin each day.
Remember: In Winter, Book a Stay Here to Simply Relax
There’s really not much to do in winter here except just appreciate the beautiful nature and soak in the onsen unless you have a car and are comfortable driving in the snow (remember snow tires/chains and 4WD always!). The inn stands alone, by the river - there are no stores, convenience shops, restaurants etc. If you’re visiting in another season, then a car would definitely be good so you can drive around, perhaps go for a walk or hike etc.
MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS
FOOD
Pretty decent! As this inn belongs to the La Vista onsen/resort brand under a larger hotel corporation — its tiered towards mid- slightly upper range of affordability and as such the quality and range reflects this. The ingredients were fresh, local and yummy - were they the highest tier, luxury local produce? - no - but everything was reflective of the price paid and delicious. Particularly loved the seafood shabu shabu we were served one night.
Breakfast, one can choose between a western style breakfast or Japanese - choose the Japanese! It was lovely, liked being able to ask for extra rice if you wished (hubby did) — was it the best Japanese breakfast I’ve had? no — but perfectly suitable and tasty.
Bonus: love their late evening noodle bar serving regional flavour mini ramen bowls — hubby loved it - as he always eats more. A lot of the onsen hotels/resorts under this hotel company - tend to feature a late evening noodle bar for their guests — it’s a nice touch. Perfect if you’re a guest who loves a little late night snack. I’ve had it at another of their properties (not La Vista brand) in Shuzenji (which I still need to write about - its coming!)
Note: Honestly, if food isn’t your biggest consideration - the food will be more than fine for you, likely even exceptional. I fully acknowledge I’m a bit of a foodie (hubby too) and having dined in a lot of onsen ryokan and other exceptional restaurants - I’m a bit more critical of an onsen ryokan’s food than perhaps the average visitor.
ONSEN
Every room at this La Vista property, has a private indoor (semi open air) onsen bath in the room for guests to enjoy — which is wonderful! My only gripe was that you can’t open the window fully to have a more open air onsen experience — but thats my personal pet quirk.
I really love it when an onsen property has included reservable private onsen for their staying guests for no additional fee. It’s just little touches like that, that help to elevate a stay. Having 3 reservable semi-open air onsen guests can freely use during their stay is great! Its like a mini onsen-meguri (which I adore!).
Having these options, of soaking in your own private onsen or using one of the reservable private onsen is perfect if you’re shy or have tattoos and can’t enter the public onsen.
The public onsen is great as well, the main outdoor rotenburo onsen is a decent size, along with the wooden barrel bath gives plenty of space for guests to enjoy. There is an indoor onsen as well — but as always I tend to focus on the outdoor more. It’s just so picturesque soaking outside with the snow surrounding you.
It’s also nice that you can enjoy free ice lollies after having an onsen in the evening!
Important: Though La Vista is family friendly, please don’t be like the other guests we saw - who let their group of elementary aged kids (about 8 of them) run wild screaming, playing in the lobby/rest area. The children opened the freezer, pulled out every single ice lolly to get the flavours they wanted, left the other ice lollies in a pile on top of the freezer, didn’t close the freezer door - and ran off. The group of parents were too busy gossiping loudly to pay any attention to their kids and didn’t even notice. Absolutely no consideration of others, and unfortunately further re-enforced their country’s stereotype of being one of the rudest tourists >_< We placed all the other ice lollies back, so other guests could enjoy them.
ROOM AMBIANCE
The rooms are great, spacious for Japan, with a mix of Japanese design aesthetics but with a more western-modern style - ie western beds. Most of the rooms are twin beds and sleep up 2-3 people (the 3rd person is normally on a sofa bed or futon). Their smaller rooms range from 32m2 - 40m2 roughly.
They also have larger style rooms, that have 2 bedrooms each which can sleep between 4 - 6 people (for 6 people, 2 guests will sleep on futons) - so great for families! The room size ranges from 51m2 - 62m2.
I love how all the rooms have a private onsen, a mini living/sitting area, wide windows with nature views and viewing seats. Very Japanese to just sit and appreciate mother nature.
VENUE AMBIANCE
The interiors of La Vista Akangawa are cozy and lovely, especially the main lobby with its high ceilings, wooden beams and large windows showcasing the beautiful nature. A fire crackles whilst you’re there and you can enjoy just sitting in their cozy armchairs. The large windows everywhere are just fabulous.
Though it is a larger onsen property than I normally prefer (64 rooms - I generally like to try for under 50 rooms depending on the type of stay - my favourite is under 20 rooms - but those stays are normally a special treat splurge) - one didn’t feel like they were in a huge, overwhelming property where you’re surrounded by hundreds of people.
The only drawback for us ( through no fault of the property itself) was that when we stayed there over Christmas (which fell on a weekend that year which didn’t help) - was that there a was a tour bus group who’s members were unfortunately unaware of how loud they were in all the common areas and let their children run wild (ie. in the onsen rest area). Thankfully they were only there for one night.
SURROUNDING AREA
Since we were visiting for our usual end of year onsen staycation, we didn’t bother to venture out to the surroundings areas (plus we would have had to hire a car) and simply enjoyed relaxing in our room and the onsen. The immediate nature surrounding the inn was exactly what we wanted for our end of year trip - snow views. Spotted some wild deer too which was lovely.
LA VISTA AKANGAWA (at time of stay) CHECK AVAILABILITY
COST: starting from ~25,000JPY per person per night
MEALS INCLUDED: Breakfast & Dinner (depending on plan)
CHECK IN/CHECK OUT TIME: 1500 / 1100
PAYMENT: Cash or Credit
ROOMS: 64
ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF: Some
WEBSITE: LA VISTA AKANGAWA
IF FULLY BOOKED — EXPLORE OTHER OPTIONS BELOW
OTHER PLACES TO STAY/THINGS TO DO
All the Snowy Onsen Ryokan I Personally Love - every winter I love to soak in an open air onsen with snow falling around me
Discover my Personal Favourite Traditional Onsen Ryokan - an ever growing list of Japan’s onsen ryokan & ryokan I’ve fallen in love with
First Time Visiting Japan? - here’s every single onsen ryokan I’ve stayed at near Tokyo, Osaka & Kyoto — along or near the Golden Route.
A Rare Two Week Japan Itinerary - Catch both Autumn & Winter - Visit in December!
TRAVEL FURTHER
Akita Prefecture - love beautiful rotenburo onsen in nature? make time to visit Akita
Aomori Prefecture - visit one of my favourite Tohoku prefectures, with amazing nature, seafood and of course onsen!
Iwate Prefecture - known as the last frontier of a wild Japan - Iwate is perfect for those who love a rugged adventure
Fukushima Prefecture - the 3rd largest prefecture in Japan, Fukushima has many onsen to enjoy
