Gaga Onsen
Escape to a Secluded Onsen Inn Lying Deep by the Zao Mountains
My favourite way to spend Christmas in Japan is to head to some gloriously snowy remote region of the country and soak away in onsen bliss as snow falls around me. On the quieter side of the Zao mountains in Miyagi prefecture is a sprawling family owned and run onsen “toji” inn, lying deep in a mountain ravine by a rushing river. It is the perfect place to relax if you want to just surround yourself with only the sounds of nature and onsen.
Click Here: Jump to Read “My Personal Thoughts” & “Stay Details”
Please Note: This article contains some affiliate links. If you make a reservation through one of these links,
I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Every property and destination featured on this website has been personally experienced by the writer, and are their personal thoughts and opinions.
A Brief History of this Historic Toji Inn.
For six generations (over 150 years), the Takeuchi family have run Gaga Onsen since it was formally established in 1875. Originally the area was once inhabited by Shugendō Buddhist Monks who would bathe in the healing onsen after their rigorous ascetic mountain training.
Afterwards the inn became renowned as a healing, restive place for weary labourers and farmers who would also immerse themselves in the onsen when the harvest season had ended. Being a Toji inn, they would bring their own bedding and stay at least a couple of months whilst cooking their own simple meals. Over time the inn evolved to provide its own meals and bedding to visiting travellers.
Prepare Yourself for a Healing Winter Wonderland Stay
The onsen waters in Gaga Onsen are renowned throughout the country as being one of Japan’s top three onsen fro the treatment of stomach-related illnesses. It’s also drinkable which is rare. The inn itself has several gensen kakenagashi (the most pure form) onsen sources from which their water flows, which is also not a common occurrence for a single property.
Though the days of travellers spending months at an onsen (can you imagine how wonderful that would be?!) has disappeared, the inn is still a popular choice who wish to experience elements of the old toji way combined with modern comforts. Today Takeuchi-san has renovated his family’s onsen inn to ensure that when guests arrive, they feel cozy, at home and welcomed.
Relax & Read in the Cozy Lounge with a Roaring Fire.
The main lobby/lounge area is not a modern, fancy space. Its homey, earthy filled with books, little cozy touches, comfy seats and reading nooks lit aglow by the fire. It really does make one feel like they’re ensconced in a wooden lodge for the winter. Takeuchi-san was determined that his family’s inn wouldn’t feel pretentious or intimidating to their guests. They hope that as soon as the guests step over the threshold, they instantly feel at home.
Spend Your Days Watching the Snow Fall.
The rooms at Gaga Onsen are traditionally Japanese with its tatami floors, sliding shoji doors and engawa space - they have been beautifully restored and maintained - the smell of the wood was invigorating. There is nothing more sublime than sitting by a window and watching the snow fall, with a fresh brewed cup of Japanese green tea in hand and a toasty, warm room.
Enjoy Time Passing Slowly in Spacious Traditional Rooms
Our room (as you can see from the photos above and below) was wonderfully spacious! There was a smaller tatami room where a deliciously cozy kotatsu table (low table with heated blanket) set up, our main tatami room where our futons were laid out and a wide spacious engawa with a comfy rocking chair (I want a rocking chair now!). If memory serves me correctly, we had the room “Take” (bamboo).
It was the perfect setting for us to spend our days leisurely, reading books, drawing, painting, sleeping before heading off for an onsen and simply just enjoying doing nothing.
Exploring the Other Rooms Available
When possible, at onsen ryokan - I like to ask to view other rooms (that obviously don’t have guests in them!) just so I can capture them and be able to write about them to you all, so you can see the variety (if any). I generally ask prior to arriving in earlier communications, and specifically like to view the rooms and potentially hear the onsen ryokan family’s story of smaller establishments especially as so many of them have been family run for hundreds of years.
The rooms at Gaga Onsen vary in size, and design. Though I would mainly classify them all as “traditional” Japanese rooms, some do have more western design influences and aesthetics, as well as some being more accessible than others. Some would be considered Japanese/Western style.
The fanciest room is “Komakusa” which is the only room that features a private semi open air onsen (the ceramic bath photo below). The “Momoji” room is the largest, with two rooms (both 10 tatami size) that can be separated via a sliding shoji door. This is recommended for families, groups of friends, generational stays. It also has two gorgeous, giant kokeshi dolls which I just fell in love with!
Quiet Moments Watching the Snow in the Reservable Private Onsen
One of my favourite features of Gaga Onsen is their complimentary reservable private onsen for staying guests. They built Tenku-no-Yu in a small, separate building where you climb some stairs and reach the 2nd floor landing where this pretty hinoki onsen bath awaits you, with a wide open vista of the surrounding nature.
Guests simply can see if the onsen is reserved (there is a sign you flip over when guests decide to use the onsen to indicate “occupied”) and you often see the indoor slippers by the door, indicating someone is already there. One has to swap the indoor slippers to the outdoor slippers to reach the onsen (its a very short walk).
Though there are no official time limits, its generally an unspoken rule that in these types of reservable private onsen - you only use it for 30mins - 1 hr max! (including changing, drying off etc). Some properties will state more clearly strict time limits, others will casually communicate a suggested time limit and rely on the kindness, courtesy and commonsense of the guests. Plus to be fair, a one-hour long bath is very long.
Daily Onsen Soakings in the Public Onsen Baths
Only the “Komakusa” room has its own private onsen/wash area. For all other rooms, all general bathing, washing hair etc must be done in their communal public onsen. Both men and women have their separate onsen baths, each featuring two onsen to enjoy. There is an indoor onsen which is maintained at a pleasant luke-warm - warm temperature perfect for soaking.
There is actually a second indoor onsen bath (through the arched entrance in the indoor photo below), but this runs at an extremely hot temperature 47degrees celsius! Rather than bathing directly in this onsen, it is traditional to simply lie by the side of this onsen bath with you head on a wooden pillow and using the yu-oke (the small onsen bucket) — gently pour the onsen water 100 times over your stomach area so one can experience the benefits of Gaga Onsen’s healing waters.
Outside there is also a lovely little outdoor onsen which you can soak in and see the snow fall. The men’s and women’s public onsen are pretty much mirror images of each other, and the outdoor onsen actually has steps leading down to the mixed open air onsen. As always remember to pre-wash before entering the onsen.
The Mixed Open Air Onsen by the River
So I was a little heartbroken to discover that we could not use the mixed open air onsen during our stay, simply because the snowfall is always too heavy and constant. It wasn’t safe to walk down the stone stairs to reach the onsen (to be fair, I couldn’t even see where my steps were - there was so much snow!).
I managed to find the first two top stairs to simply capture this shot from above, but even though I’m adventurous and love traipsing through snow - even I could see there was no way I could tell how deep the snow actually was. There was a “caution” tape/string that had been put to block entrance - but it had blown apart in the strong wind.
Apparently hubby couldn’t even see that there was another onsen area from his angle as there was so much snow!
So if you want to try their mixed onsen - go in a different season, like Autumn (the momoji leaves would be beautiful) — winter its pretty much closed.
Remember no clothes/swimsuits in the mixed onsen!
Photo below (belonging to Gaga Onsen) to show you the mixed open air onsen.
This photo belows to Gaga Onsen. Sharing with you so you can see it in other seasons.
Simple, Delicious Home Cooked Meals for Breakfast & Dinner
Meals at Gaga Onsen aren’t the sumptuous Kaiseki meals you may have experienced or seen on my other onsen ryokan articles. Historically since this was (and still is) a Toji inn — the meals are simpler, “cleaner” with a focus of course on seasonal home grown/foraged ingredients and local products that aim to help one’s digestion, metabolism and just all round gut-health. They hope to provide meals that “nourish the body.”
Tip: Be Prepared for some Epic Snowfall
We visited Gaga Onsen during quite an epic year of snow - but even this blew my mind! (and I’ve done a lot of snowy onsen around the country!). Due to its location in the ravine, snow just accumulates and accumulates! We woke up one morning to the snow just piled high up one of our windows. It is breathtaking - but with so much snow do have the proper footwear and clothing with you.
MY PERSONAL THOUGHTS
FOOD
The food was lovely, very simple, nourishing (think more home cooked fare, not fancy) especially after having several richer, heavier kaiseki meals on our earlier travels. However hubby and I are big eaters so we were still a little hungry afterwards. Thankfully we alway pack snacks with us, so we had those to fall back on. If you’re travelling to a remote onsen ryokan with literally nothing around it but nature - I cannot advise it enough but always bring snacks - whether it be dried fruit, nuts, fresh fruit, cup noodles, wine, sake, beer, chips, chocolate - whatever you like to munch on. You many not have a kitchen available but you have a kettle - so things like cup noodles, miso soup can be easily made, if you’re still feeling peckish. For our Christmas getaways we like to pack fruit, cheese, crackers, dried meats, some nice wine that we graze on during our stay.
ONSEN
Was so sad about the mixed open air onsen, but Tenku-no-Yu (the reservable private onsen) was a gem and just so beautiful to spend time there soaking away. Important to note that the staircase leading to Tenku-no-Yu is slightly exposed to the elements - so just be a little cautious if the snow has melted and become a bit slippy (wear the outside slippers provided!). Also note Tenku-no Yu doesn’t have a wash area so pour the yu-oke 3 times over the body to cleanse and/or pre-wash in the indoor onsen beforehand.
Loved the whole tradition of the hot inner onsen, where you simply lie by the side and pour the onsen slowly over yourself to help heal stomach ailments.
ROOM AMBIANCE
I LOVED OUR ROOM! It was just so spacious and yet so wonderfully cozy - was perfect to just enjoy being present and relaxing, reading a book, sleeping, indulging in hobbies. Having separate tatami rooms also was a bonus, as its nice when hubby falls asleep and I’m still awake, I can continue reading, writing, drawing in a separate room not disturbing him (he’s a light sleeper) and enjoying the warmth of the kotatsu blanket. Generally I will always choose a traditional Japanese style room in a traditional onsen ryokan, I love sleeping on futons, tatami mats and the rooms are always a couple thousand yen cheaper than one that is more western style. Until my bones get creaky, I will probably always choose a Japanese-style room.
Would have loved to have the room with private onsen, but again the tatami room won out for its space, aesthetic and the fact that their reservable private onsen had better snow views.
Remember showering to be done in the onsen, most of the rooms don’t have a private ensuite - however most have a toilet.
VENUE AMBIANCE
Cozy, just loved how homey it was. Think warm golden ambiance in the lobby/lounge with the crackling of the fire, cozy little places to curl up if you wish to read their selection of books (mainly Japanese). Its perfect if you want a quiet, peaceful stay — their children are also adorable and so well behaved. The whole setting really makes you feel like you’re staying at a personal home (to be fair, it is their home!).
If you’re someone who wants grander facilities, a newer look/atmosphere then Gaga is probably not for you.
SURROUNDING AREA
Honestly since it was winter and the snowfall was so epic — it was utterly breathtaking — but it also means there’s not much to do outside in the general area. Also there’s nothing there! There’s no other shops, restaurants, cafes etc — you are remote! So bring stuff to do and just enjoy the warmth and hospitality and relax. In other seasons I imagine, the nature and foliage are impressive that you can enjoy activities like hiking, walking etc - maybe even walking down to the river — and if you drive there — you will obviously have more freedom to explore the neighbouring town etc.
However in winter, we don’t see the point of hiring a car as it just sits unused for the whole time you’re there (waste of money!) — so I ensured that we timed all our public travel to correspond with their shuttle bus schedule. It does change in winter a little bit to adjust for snow delays and train times.
GAGA ONSEN (at time of stay) CHECK AVAILABILITY
COST: starting from ~18,000JPY per person per night
MEALS INCLUDED: Breakfast & Dinner (depending on plan)
CHECK IN/CHECK OUT TIME: 1500 / 1030
PAYMENT: Cash or Credit
ROOMS: 17
ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF: Some
WEBSITE: GAGA ONSEN
IG: @GAGAONSEN
*Below: A photo I took of the current sixth generation of the Takeuchi’s who have been running Gaga Onsen since the late 19th century
IF FULLY BOOKED — EXPLORE OTHER OPTIONS BELOW
OTHER PLACES TO STAY/THINGS TO DO
Takamiya Miyamaso - stay a night or two in Zao Onsen’s oldest onsen ryokan, still run by the same family for over 300 years.
Sagiya Sansorai - soak away a night or two in Kaminoyama onsen town, directly accessible from Tokyo station via shinkansen
Ginzan Onsen - discover this picturesque onsen town lit with old lamps, magical in winter
Takimikan - the prettiest onsen ryokan in Ginzan with a stunning outdoor rotenburo.
TRAVEL FURTHER
Akita Prefecture - love beautiful rotenburo onsen in nature? make time to visit Akita
Aomori Prefecture - visit one of my favourite Tohoku prefectures, with amazing nature, seafood and of course onsen!
Iwate Prefecture - known as the last frontier of a wild Japan - Iwate is perfect for those who love a rugged adventure
Fukushima Prefecture - the 3rd largest prefecture in Japan, Fukushima has many onsen to enjoy
Discover my Personal Favourite Traditional Onsen Ryokan - an ever growing list of Japan’s onsen ryokan & ryokan I’ve fallen in love with
